Trish saw them first. We were ascending a gradual climb on a ridge that overlooked a sweeping valley below. Far in the distance, the Douro River carved a sinewy arc of blue into the landscape. The hillside to our right cascaded ever downward, etched with the parallel brown and green lines of the region’s famous terraced vineyards. There were farmers off in the distance somewhere between where the vineyards ended and where the Douro rolled through.
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I wanted to be a pro cyclist when I was a kid. My interest in food came from there, from an athlete’s perspective, cooking food as part of that diet. Then I was playing frisbee one day in high school and when I jumped up to catch it I landed funny on my right leg and broke it. That was pretty unexpected. It was because of a bone tumor that had been there since birth, which I had no idea about. I was laid up for a long time, I had a bunch of metal put in, I still have a big scar from the knee up to my hip, and I couldn’t walk properly for a couple of years. It was hard, but I had to give up on the dream of racing bikes for a living. In retrospect, that’s probably a good thing, because I don’t think many of them are making real money doing it.
San Francisco to LA. A total distance of 792 kilometers with 8,685 meters of climbing, over five days, in January. Sounds like fun, right? The Coast Ride is a familiar fixture on the cycling calendar if you’re from California, but we like to do things a little differently. For starters, we have a full European crew of mechanics, soigneurs and guides with some tricked-out support cars and a team bus. Of course, we also bring a fleet of wicked-fast Pinarellos. Then we add a sprinkling of ex-pro riders for support, and finish it off by inviting a Michelin-starred chef along for the ride. We can’t promise good weather, but plenty of smiles and breathtaking views are guaranteed. And for 2020, we can also assure you that a couple of very special guests will be joining us: Laurens ten Dam, veteran of the World Tour and top-10 finisher at both the Tour de France and the Vuelta a España will be riding alongside our old friend Ted King, former pro turned gravel guru. You can read more about the 2020 trip here, but trust us, it’s going to be a blast. Don’t take our word for it though. Here are some first-hand opinions from riders, right after the finish-line.
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The kids are all right. Chris Froome and Vincenzo Nibali aren’t hanging up their cleats anytime soon, but this year made it clear that pro cycling’s biggest trend is youth.
Anyone who spends time with Eros Poli will tell you that with all his energy and good humor, the big guy is really a big kid at heart. So it’s hard to believe that it’s been 25 years since his famous triumph on Mont Ventoux at the Tour de France.
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It was stage 19 of the 2016 Giro d’Italia. Vincenzo Nibali was out of form and out of ideas, a shadow of the gutsy, unpredictable racer adored by the Italian tifosi, and nothing like the dynamic champion who had won the 2010 Vuelta a España, the 2013 Giro or the 2014 Tour de France. Only five other riders have won all three grand tours, and the press were slow to write him off, but deep into the Corsa Rosa’s second week, criticism was building.
We’re on a modest street in Matosinhos, a port city just north of the Douro river that these days has been swallowed up by Porto’s urban sprawl. It’s a working-class neighborhood, and walking down the Rua Roberto Ivens, an unremarkable little cobbled thoroughfare not far from the waterfront and the docklands of the Port of Leixões, it’s hard not to feel like we’ve taken a wrong turn somewhere.
