A while ago, we asked our friend (and famous chef) Matt Accarrino for a cookie recipe. Because who doesn’t like cookies? Unsurprisingly, his Michelin-starred twist on a classic treat was a big hit with the inGamba family, so we cheekily went back and asked him for some more dishes. He was happy to help, allowing us to share a few recipes from his book, SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine. So more are on the way, but this pasta is an excellent place to start. Buon appetito!
For the pasta:
300 g • 21/3 cups “double zero” flour
200 g • 1 3/4 cups farro flour or whole wheat flour
2 g • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
200 g • 4 eggs
For the sauce:
115 g • 1/2 cup butter
57 g • 1/4 cup white wine
115 g • 1/2 cup heavy cream
1g • 1 1/2 teaspoons poppy seeds
40 g • 2 green onions, sliced thinly on an angle
83 g • 3 ounces (1/2 cup) thinly sliced speck
kosher salt and black pepper
a block of Grana Padano for grating
To make the pasta: In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the flours and salt on low speed. Drizzle in the eggs and mix the dough for two to three minutes, then turn it onto the counter and knead for several minutes by hand; it will feel dryand firm. Flatten the dough into a rectangle, wrap in plastic wrap, and leave on the counter for 30 minutes to soften and hydrate.
For the pasta, I recommend an electric pasta roller or a hand-crank model that attaches to a kitchen table; either will give you long, uniform sheets just under six inches wide.
Clear a large workspace. Whether you are using a hand-cranked pasta machine or a stand mixer attachment, set the rollers on the widest setting. Unwrap the dough (it should be at room temperature) and divide it into three or four pieces. If it’s too thick to fit through the rollers, flatten it with your hands or a rolling pin.
While cranking the pasta machine or with the mixer on, guide the dough through the rollers. Fold the dough in overlapping thirds (like a letter) and pass through again. Repeat a couple of times. Switch to the next thinnest setting and guide the dough through twice. Repeat until you have passed the dough through about the second-thinnest setting, depending on your machine (the dough should be quite thin). If the dough sticks at any point, dust it lightly with flour.
Before cutting the sheets into noodles, stretch them out on a table and let them dry for five to 10 minutes. This way, you won’t have to add as much flour to the noodles to prevent them from sticking together when you cut them.
Cut the pasta into 10-inch sheets and dust with flour. Lay the sheets on a work surface and, using a fluted pasta cutter or a knife, cut them into 1/2-inch-wide ribbons, and place on a lightly floured baking sheet until ready to cook.
In a saucepan, whisk the butter and two tablespoons of water until it’s emulsified – this is burro fuso (also known as beurre monté in French – Ed.). Keep warm. In a large sauté pan with straight sides, bring the wine to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce until almost dry, then pour in the cream and reduce until the pan is nearly dry again. Mix in the burro fuso and keep warm. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the noodles for five to six minutes or until al dente. Drain pasta, return it to the pot, and pour in the sauce. Sprinkle with poppy seeds, green onions, and speck, and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper and grate cheese over the top. Divide the pasta among six warm plates and finish with more grated cheese over the top.
Matthew Accarrino’s San Francisco restaurant, SPQR, won its first Michelin star in 2013 and has kept it since. Outside of the kitchen, he is also a wicked-fast bike racer in his spare time. He regularly rides with inGamba, and is our chef on the Coast Ride and Healdsburg Trips. You can read more about him on our Journal right here.